Intermediate stops included:

• Anogeia for coffee break
• Piratiko Fjord near Plakias
• The bridge of Aradaina to watch the daredevils bungee jumping

Beautiful winter green landscapes adorned the mountains and the coastline, with the Libyan Sea in the background.

Even in winter, the roads were empty, providing an ideal environment for spirited and comfortable driving.

The highlights of this route are the Therisso Gorge and the breathtaking views between Therisso and Zourva.

Beautiful country roads, primarily paved, included:

• Ano Viannos (Heraklion) to Nea Anatoli (Lasithi)
• Ziros to Xerokampos, and especially the winding descent to the beach (Lasithi)
• Zakros to Kato Zakros (Lasithi)
• Zakros to Piscocephalus (Lasithi)
• Ierapetra to Prina (Lasithi)
• Prina to Kritsa to the Lasithi Plateau (Lasithi)

Expect to encounter remote villages, incredible views towards the north coast and the surrounding mountains, and stunning natural beauty. However, be prepared for an 11-kilometer stretch of passable dirt road between the villages of Ano Kefala and Sembrona but this is arguably the most scenic part of the route.

Highlights of the route include:

• The picturesque village of Kastellos
• The stunning views towards the Cretan Sea and Lake Kournas
• The scenic route encompassing Kastellos - Kournas Village - Lake Kournas - Georgioupoli - Vamos

Recommended stops are:

• Kastellos for a coffee break
• Lake Kournas for a coffee break and/or lunch
• Vamos for a coffee break and/or lunch
• The Kiani Akti beach for swimming

Overall, the route offers an excellent and diverse landscape, encompassing coastal areas, mountains, gorges, and plateaus.

Highlights of this route include:

• Platanos - Sfinari - Amygdalokefali: Excellent road with numerous turns and stunning sea views.
• Elafonisi - Paleochora: Challenging dirty road leading to the village of Sklavopoula, offering breathtaking views of Elafonisi and Kedrodasos.
• Paleochora - Rodovani: Scenic route with an impressive ascent into the mountains.
• Seliniotikos Giros: An alternative route through the White Mountains to Omalos, characterized by lush greenery.
• Lakkoi - Meskla: An interesting and steep descent.
• Meskla - Zourva: A challenging ascent with numerous sharp turns.
• Therissos Gorge: A picturesque and beautiful route through the Therissos Gorge.

We enjoyed free camping in Ai Giannis, Gavdos, and explored the island by motorbike and hiking, accompanied by Sifi and Stefanos.

While there aren't many major sights, a visit to the Gavdos Lighthouse (at 360m altitude, offering breathtaking sunset views) and Akrotiri of Trypitis (the southernmost point of Europe) is highly recommended.

Reaching Akrotiri of Trypitis requires a bit of effort. The road beyond the village of Vatsiana is a rough dirty road that ends well before the beach. From there, a 15-minute walk along a trail leads to Akrotiri of Trypitis and the beach.

Alternatively, a marked path to Trypiti begins at Korfos.

Other hiking options include the trail from Ai Giannis to Lavraka beach and the trail from Ampelo to Potamos (which I plan to explore on a future trip).

The most interesting and picturesque section by far is the stretch between Tylissos, Anogeia, and Garazo.

Highlights of the route include:

• The exhilarating descent from Kallikratis to Frangokastello, characterized by continuous and sharply winding hairpin turns
• The challenging route from Chora Sfakion to Imbro, also featuring numerous turns, albeit less steep, followed by a drive through the verdant Imbro Gorge.

Accompanied by Stefanos, Sifis, and Eleonora, we paused at the radar point, located near the road leading up to Asfendou, to enjoy the panoramic view. We also enjoyed a coffee break in the same village.

An ideal stop for food is the cafe in Askifou, situated in the village of Ammoudari at the junction leading towards the Tavris mountain. Nikos and Nektarios serve delicious and authentic homemade Sfakian pies, along with whatever else they have available.

Located on the southern slopes of Psiloritis, Rouva Forest is one of Crete's few remaining forests and an exceptional location for free camping. A highly recommended route to reach Rouva Forest from Chania or Rethymnon is through the Amari Valley, one of the least developed regions of Crete. The drive from Rethymnon to Zaros unfolds amidst breathtaking landscapes overlooking the slopes of Psiloritis, passing through numerous picturesque villages.

Suggested stops along the way include the Arkadiou Monastery, many villages for a coffee break at a traditional cafe, and finally Zaros, one of Crete's most enchanting villages, worthy of an extended stay.

Zaros boasts the captivating Votomos Lake, a forested area ideal for relaxation. Enjoy the lakeside ambiance at the wooden tables or the refreshment bar. From here, a trail traverses the Agios Nikolaos Gorge, leading to Rouva Forest. Zaros offers a selection of taverns for dining and various accommodation options. Based on previous stays, I recommend the following:

• Elaionas Traditional Guesthouses: Comfortable accommodation in traditional houses nestled in nature.
• Idi Hotel: A classic hotel with bungalow options, offering a more economical choice amidst lush greenery.
• Traditional guesthouse Anastasia: An ideal choice for groups of up to eight people, renowned for Mrs. Anastasia's impeccable hospitality and service.

From Zaros, the road continues eastward towards the villages of Nyvritos and Gergeri, marking the beginning of the ascent to Rouva Forest. The initial kilometers are paved, transitioning into a well-maintained dirt road. This winding road offers stunning panoramas of the Messara Plain and the Libyan Sea in the distance. At a certain point, a stone sign indicates the junction: the left branch leads to Rouva Forest (signposted as "Agios Ioannis Rouva"). The dirt road gradually deteriorates as it descends through increasingly dense vegetation, ultimately reaching the heart of the forest. The hike from Zaros via the Agios Nikolaos Gorge converges at this point.

Rouva Forest is essentially an organized recreational area featuring wooden tables and benches under the shade of trees for picnicking, designated barbecue areas, drinking water, and numerous idyllic spots for free camping. The atmosphere is one of unparalleled simplicity and tranquility, with even mobile phone reception limited. The chapel of Agios Ioannis adds a touch of serenity to the surroundings.

At the aforementioned junction, the right branch ascends to the higher reaches of the forest, eventually connecting to the Schinakas Observatory, the Nida Plateau, and finally Anogeia. While I did not explore this particular route on this occasion, I have driven it previously and can attest to its exceptional mountain scenery.

For the return journey, I opted for the route back to Gergeri and then onwards towards Heraklion. I must admit that this leg of the journey was significantly less interesting.